from the sight of the whip by running back, his instinct will cause him to go forward. If at that moment the whip is lowered and a pat on the neck given, he will gain confidence, will understand what we want him to do, and will obey our wishes, Although we cannot obtain the result at the first attempt, we shall do so in a few lessons, especially if the breaker does not frighten the horse by some abrupt movement when the animal is advancing.

We can dispense with the lunging rein as soon as the horse will come freely up to us, when we show him the driving whip. This first lunging work is only preparatory. It has been used in all times, but has been applied and utilised in different ways. It was employed in excess before the days of Baucher, who disliked it. I think it is useful, supposing, of course, that it is not employed to fatigue the horse.

In order to make a horse come up to me without the help of the lunging rein, I use the same methods as when lunging. At the beginning of the work I employ the rein a good deal and the whip only a little. According as the horse progresses I diminish the use of the rein and increase that of the whip, while always blocking up with the whip the side at which the horse tries to escape from me, so as to make him come up to me. Finally, he gets into the habit of coming up to me on seeing the whip, and without my using the rein in any way. I then teach him to follow me all over the school, while always stopping him with the whip from getting away, and making him promptly go on by light flicks on the hind quarters.

Finally I discontinue the use of the lunging rein. If, as always happens, the horse refuses to obey the whip and tries to escape from me, there is a battle, which consists in my flicking the horse on the hind quarters until he comes up to me, which result may at first appear improbable. However, when the horse is pursued by the man round the school for a