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If he again rears, bear strongly on the snaffle, but without jerks. When he has tried to rear three or four times without being able to succeed, he will soon give up the attempt, and perhaps may throw himself on his side, which he can do only to the left, as the wall is on his right. A touch of the whip on the left side, and shaking him up with the left snaffle rein will be sufficient to make him get up.

When the horse runs back, we should place ourselves in front of him, and should pull strongly on the snaffle reins, while slightly bending the knees and carrying the weight of the body back, so that the horse can drag us back only with difficulty, and consequently will soon become tired. I have had so much practice in letting myself be dragged, while keeping on my feet, that I can almost always stop any horse at his second or third step. When he finds that we passively and not actively resist his efforts, he will generally stop and give a deep sigh. Fix him in this position, and try to find out, which we can easily do with a little practice, if he is going to yield or to continue his resistance.

The lesson should never be interrupted, and it should on no account be terminated by reason of the resistance of the horse.

When the horse has given in, I again gently try, as in the previous manner, to make him go forward and do not stop until I have succeeded. Almost always the animal promptly gives in.

In the first part of this breaking, Baucher used to try to make the horse come forward by lightly touching him on the breast with a cutting whip, while he held the snaffle reins at half-length and stood facing the horse. As I have explained in the chapter on lunging, I do not object to this method, although it is open to the serious objection of rendering the man liable to be hit by the horse's fore feet and of making the animal ticklish. Besides, touching the horse on the breast is of no further use in breaking ; but touching him on the sides,

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