three lessons of about ten minutes' duration. When he has full confidence, we may lunge him over the log, while gradually getting further and further away from him. As soon as he will walk over the bar, while the breaker stands in the middle of the school, the bar can be raised from 12 to 16 inches, and the horse left to jump it in his own way. The chief thing is that he clears it. This plan of accustoming a horse to a fence, has been practised in circuses from time immemorial.

A horse which likes jumping will generally rush, and should be calmed down, so that he may take the leap quietly. If, on the contrary, he stops or hesitates, he should be encouraged by the voice and should be shown the driving whip, but should not be struck with it, or frightened at starting. We should, however, make him go over the bar, and should carefully note how he jumps. The best fencers jump straight, freely, and without pausing. Some leap " stickily," and others jump sideways. Horses which jump freely and of their own accord need only be taught to clear the fence, successively, at the walk, trot and canter.

Horses which make a half halt when coming up to the obstacle, should be stimulated by the driving whip until they have lost the habit of stopping. Consequently, we should not let them jump at the walk and trot, until they will freely do so, at the canter.

Things are not much more complicated with horses that jump sideways, and we have only to oppose their shoulders to their haunches. If, for instance, we are on the left hand, and the horse throws his hind quarters to the left, and consequently to the inside, we should pull the lunging rein, in order to bring his shoulders to the left, and at the same time we should touch the left haunch with the lash of the whip, to send the hind quarters to the right. If, on the contrary, the horse brings his haunches to the right, that is to say, to the